Zuul – Dress Construction

zuulMaterials
– Outer -58″ Casa Collection poly organza in “Ginger” (Discontinued color from JoAnn)
– Inner – 45″ Gold/Black liquid lame fabric (eBay)
– SureLock overlock thread in orange (closest I could find to rust)
– Gütermann serger thread in black (I had this on hand)
– Gütermann Poly thread in Rust (two spools)

  • I had to buy twice as much of the liquid lame as I normally would have because the back side of the fabric was of course black and Zuul’s dress is metallic on both sides. It’s also a black/gold lame in the pics, not a bright cheap looking gold lame. A lot of people use the cheap looking stuff. :\

 

Pattern

I drafted the pattern for this dress myself using the measurements provided to me by the customer. The following graphic depicts how I roughly drew the patterns out.

updated pattern

 

UPDATE – I totally wrote the measurements for the folded bits wrong. It’s 1/4 the bust, waist, etc measurements. The updated graphic is shown above. Thanks to Ali for pointing it out! 🙂

I also added cuffs to the sleeves and a 2 1/2″ wide sash belt that I didn’t draw a pattern for. I just literally cut strips of each fabric 2 3/4″ wide and serged all of the edges. I used two pieces of the gold so that the gold would show through the rust and on the back side.

Top Construction

I cut out all of the pieces and serged the fronts together (one organza and one lame). I left the bottom hems of the sleeves and neckline unserged for the time being. I did baste stitch the neckline pieces.

Pin directly to ironing board!

Roll hem up close

After cutting out all of the pattern pieces I serged the top front pieces and top back pieces together – Except the underside of the sleeves. The gold fabric I serged together, but I left the rust organza free. This is the best solution I found as based on the reference pictures it looks like her sleeve seams are open. So that means I had to do a rolled hem on the organza. I ended up ironing and pinning 1/2″ roll hem on each piece (4 total).  That was a challenge as organza is extremely slippery.

Hemming the neckline

I found a solution to this! I pinned the organza as I ironed the folds directly to my ironing board, and hand stitched the entire hem. I found an excellent tutorial on doing blind hems on youtube and it was most helpful. I’ll try to find the link later. Anyway, the sleeves turned out AMAZING.

The neckline hems were serged and then roll hemmed using a blind stitch to create the proper look.

Skirt Construction

Skirt hems!

This was tricky! For the gold fabric I serged the two panels for the skirt back together (right sides in), and then flipped them right side out with the bottom hem open. I did the same for the skirt front. I then used a satin stitch along the entire bottom hem. For the organza, I serged the edges of each panel, and then serged the two panels together where I knew they would connect (which wasn’t much). I then did a rolled hem on all of the skirt edges of the organza. For the area of the pocket (on the right side), I left an area open big enough for the pocket and then rolled those openings and sewed them by hand. I did the same for inserting the pocket in the gold fabric.

Assembly

So now that everything was serged together and all hemmed, it was time to put the pieces together. I joined the top and bottom as they were the same measurement and serged the two halves together. Then I went back and sewed a band of elastic into the waistline, pulling the elastic tight as I went around the waist. This will help keep the dress flounced even as it moves underneath the belt.

At this point I went ahead and added the cuffs I made to the sleeves. I first serged them together and then stitched them onto the sleeves.

Photos

 

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4 responses to “Zuul – Dress Construction

  1. Pingback: Site and Costume Updates! | The Patchwork Pirate·

  2. Hi! This is a great resource, I’m about to use it! I have a quick question though- on your drawing the measurements are listed as full measurements for each half of the pattern… Is the pattern double-size or is each measurement supposed to be cut in half on the folded pattern?

    Thanks!

    • Oh wow that’s been up for a while and I totally did not even think about it being wrong.

      It’s actually 1/4″ the bust, waist, etc. measurements plus the additional.

      I’m uploading the updated graphic now. It should be right.

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