Zuul!

CompletedUpdate 11/01/2016 – Since I get so many requests, here is the writeup for Zuul. I’ve also added a link under Tutorials to the full writeup page. Happy sewing and be sure to send me pics!

So I finally managed to get pictures taken of the finished Zuul (Ghostbusters) dress for my friend Megan at Vivid Disaster Studios.

Materials

Outer -58″ Casa Collection poly organza
Inner – 45″ Gold/Black liquid lame fabric
SureLock overlock thread in orange (closest I could find to rust)
Gutermaan serger thread in black (I had this on hand)
Gutermann Poly thread in Rust (two spools)

  • I had to buy twice as much of the liquid lame as I normally would have because the back side of the fabric was of course black and Zuul’s dress is metallic on both sides.

Pattern

I drafted the pattern for this dress myself using the measurements provided to me by the customer. The following graphic depicts how I roughly drew the patterns out.

updated pattern

UPDATE – New graphic as I totally had the measurements listed wrong for the folded pieces. It didn’t even dawn on me til it was brought to my attention. The updated graphic is above.

I also added cuffs to the sleeves and a 2 1/2″ wide sash belt that I didn’t draw a pattern for. I just literally cut strips of each fabric 2 3/4″ wide and serged all of the edges. I used two pieces of the gold so that the gold would show through the rust and on the back side.

Top Construction

I cut out all of the pieces and serged the fronts together (one organza and one lame). I left the bottom hems of the sleeves and neckline unserged for the time being. I did baste stitch the neckline pieces.

Pin directly to ironing board!

Roll hem up close

After cutting out all of the pattern pieces I serged the top front pieces and top back pieces together – Except the underside of the sleeves. The gold fabric I serged together, but I left the rust organza free. This is the best solution I found as based on the reference pictures it looks like her sleeve seams are open. So that means I had to do a rolled hem on the organza. I ended up ironing and pinning 1/2″ roll hem on each piece (4 total).  That was a challenge as organza is extremely slippery.

Hemming the neckline

I found a solution to this! I pinned the organza as I ironed the folds directly to my ironing board, and hand stitched the entire hem. I found an excellent tutorial on doing blind hems on youtube and it was most helpful. I’ll try to find the link later. Anyway, the sleeves turned out AMAZING.

The neckline hems were serged and then roll hemmed using a blind stitch to create the proper look.

Skirt Construction

Skirt hems!

This was tricky! For the gold fabric I serged the two panels for the skirt back together (right sides in), and then flipped them right side out with the bottom hem open. I did the same for the skirt front. I then used a satin stitch along the entire bottom hem. For the organza, I serged the edges of each panel, and then serged the two panels together where I knew they would connect (which wasn’t much). I then did a rolled hem on all of the skirt edges of the organza. For the area of the pocket (on the right side), I left an area open big enough for the pocket and then rolled those openings and sewed them by hand. I did the same for inserting the pocket in the gold fabric.

Assembly

So now that everything was serged together and all hemmed, it was time to put the pieces together. I joined the top and bottom as they were the same measurement and serged the two halves together. Then I went back and sewed a band of elastic into the waistline, pulling the elastic tight as I went around the waist. This will help keep the dress flounced even as it moves underneath the belt.

At this point I went ahead and added the cuffs I made to the sleeves. I first serged them together and then stitched them onto the sleeves.

Photos

 

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24 responses to “Zuul!

    • I originally bought all of the “Ginger” organza that JoAnn had in their casa collection a couple of years ago. It was a fall color, and has since been discontinued. However!!! Any dark orange organza will work. It’s definitely orange, not red. Look for “Mirror Organza” if you want it to have that watery sheen. The black/gold lame is really easy to find on ebay and I think JoAnn started carrying it recently. You just have to double up on it since the back of the fabric is black and Zuul’s dress is gold on both sides of the lame.

  1. Hey! Is she selling this dress? I need one by sat 24th of October 2015. I’d happily PayPal her for it! Let me know!

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